Banger crudo
And some favorite posts this year
Hello from Paris. Last night, I popped into Folderol for rosé and a bowl with scoops of both olive oil and pistachio ice cream before dinner. Multiple neighbors commented at the bar on how nice it is to be an adult and pull such a move. Whatever TikTok craze temporarily torched this place seems to have passed.
Across the curved pass heading into the Folderol kitchen, there were three pieces of simple white paper labeled “Ice cream ideas” — lists with names like coffee & donuts, whiskey with lemon rind, avocado and plenty of liner notes throughout. You had to strain your neck a bit to spot it on the way back from the bathroom, but I enjoyed this little peek into the creative process at work.
That continued next door at Le Rigamarole, where Sam Schwarz and Alexis Bijaoui were closing out a month of pop-up dinners. They’re planning to open up their own spot in Paris next year, early or late summer, and this was a bit of a test run. Sam is from Baltimore and spent time at Fradei in Brooklyn, but has mostly worked in Paris at spots like Soces and Septime.
I love these kinds of meals, watching two young chefs play with ideas right in that moment where their creative energy is the highest. They’re the best versions of a restaurant pop-up, a way to see the first hints of brilliant inspiration and the path to something that just might be magic.
After opening with a salsify tempura that ate like a (very good) fancy onion ring, Sam dropped off a stunning crudo dish.
I’ve eaten a lot of first crudos. That new restaurant staple, where the chefs are convinced they’ve sourced or dry-aged fish in a way that’s unlike anything else. The dishes aren’t necessarily bad, but like a prestige TV show that opens with a dramatic flash forward, experienced audiences are trained to take a deep, here-we-go-again breath when it arrives. I’ve had three clunkers this quarter. Sam and Alexis delivered a rare exception.
Local bass gets seasoned 25 minutes before serving, and then it’s scattered in between a few pieces of radicchio and tossed in a light, subtle bergamot dressing. I would gladly go back for more of that fish tonight, but the real attraction was crossing over that threshold with a couple chefs where you just think — give me more of your food. I’m in. I’ve got season tickets now. Disconnected from reservation chaos and end-of-year lists or travel itineraries and trend debates, these kinds of discoveries are invigorating.
I’m in Europe for New Year’s Eve, the best holiday of the year. I’ll go deeper on Paris and London food stuff in the next couple weeks. For now, I’m rounding up some of my favorite posts from Year 2 of Bangers & Jams. Thanks so much for reading. Here’s to more great dining and debates in 2026.
