Top 25 restaurant dishes: Winter rankings
(Yes I've decided winter is over)
It’s been three months since the last Bangers & Jams restaurant dish rankings, and in my mind, winter is over. As February creeps into March, a deeply Texan part of me snaps — I’m fully done with the cold, done with the dark, ready for shorts and sun.
Winter is my favorite season to cook at home. I love the produce and the seasonal seafood, the long braises and the crowded tables. I seek the same comfort out in dining rooms, which you’ll see here in my top 25 restaurant dish rankings, rooted more in comfort and reliability than ambition and creativity. That’s what’s getting me out to eat right now. Maybe my focus will change in the spring.
Only one rule: no repeats from previous annual top 100 rankings, which are linked below. Otherwise — some new faves, some old faves, and some must-visits from LA to New York to Paris to London. Let’s hit it.
Top 25 restaurant dishes | Winter edition
Fish ribs | Morihiro | LA
Wrote about these in my end-of-year Bangers-Only wrap-up for 2025, and they have held up on repeat visits. Once or twice a week, Morihiro puts out a couple servings of a special I’ve otherwise never encountered. This is a rare place that breaks down all of their fish whole for sushi, which means they’re able to offer a small plate of fish ribs — prepared simply on the grill — that have an intense, wild flavor without much modification. The new location in Echo Park is a gem, especially since you can slide in and order a la carte sushi at this level of quality alongside an excellent bar. Maybe my favorite new thing in Los Angeles.Ham, butter and cornichon baguette | Caractère de Cochon | Paris
A perfect food done perfectly.Snacks | La Buvette | Paris
I stopped into La Buvette twice in five days. On each visit we fired off a round of great cheese, charcuterie, bread, their famous beans. Nothing you can’t do at home. But a welcome reminder of a beautiful way to eat: Out in the world with friends, the highest quality ingredients unadorned or fussed over, with wine picked by an expert who knows way more than you do.Fresh madeleines | St. John | London
Breakfast sandwich | Amanda’s Good Morning Cafe | NYC
I’d love to start more days in 2026 with this egg sandwich from Amanda’s pop up at Strange Delight and end more evenings with the freshly baked madeleines from St. John, both of which beam with a crowd-pleasing elegance and high level of care.The entire entrée course | Bistrot de Tournelles | Paris
Entrée are very much back. Maybe you’ve heard. Here I had a table full of steak au poivre, butternut squash ravioli, greens and fries. What’s not to like?Nervetti salad| I Cavallini | NYC
Cold beef tendon and onions are an ideal canvas for Nick Curtola’s Italian cooking. I ate an entire plate of this on my own with no help and could not have been happier.Pastina and parm brodo | Bruce | LA
I’m not surprised this dish has gotten mixed responses on different nights — that’s part of the tightrope walk of an evolving pop-up in a tiny kitchen. I’m just sad for everyone who didn’t share the version I received, seasoned just to the edge of saltiness and textured more like a luxurious risotto, paired with some astounding dealer’s choice wine from the Café Triste team. I hope the Bruce squad keeps this going.Blinis, maple butter and country ham | Stars | NYC
I’ll keep singing the praises of this ideal cold-night dish at New York’s best bar. Pair it with whatever white cellar pour is on the menu that night.Crab salad | Baby Bistro | LA
If anyone guesses the secret ingredient in this bad boy, I’ll gift them a lifetime paid subscription. (No cheating).Clams with smoked vinegar butter | l’Arpaon | Paris
Holiday apple pie | Kato | LA
Finley Farms lettuces | Bell’s | Los Alamos
Sticky toffee pudding | Wilde’s | LA
Skate wing with sauce blanquette | Clamato | Paris
Olive oil and hazelnut ice cream coupe | Folderol | Paris
Sea bass crudo | Le Rigamarole | Paris
Endive salad with Roquefort, pear and walnuts | Le Grand Cafe | Paris
Bento box lunch | Mokochaya | Paris
Ricotta omelette | Le Doyenné | Paris
Beef arayes | NOUR Comptoir | Paris
Steamed cabbage and butter | Rochelle Canteen | London
Endive salad | Estela | NYC
Corn husk meringue | Cosme | NYC
Tamagoyaki omelet with comté | RVR | LA
I want country ham with blinis and maple butter on every menu in the cold weather
Freakin great list